The World's Top Chefs Fall in Love with "Budo Sansho"—A Miraculous Story from the Mountains of Wakayama to the World

Hello, I'm Miko, the manager of Kokako Shoten.

Today, I would like to share with you the story of "Kanja Sanshoen," which is included in our new product lineup for September!

I always say, "Shopping is voting."

Knowing the producer's thoughts and stories behind their products makes the experience of tasting them at the dinner table completely different. The moment you put a single grain of sansho pepper in your mouth, you can feel the effort and passion that went into making it. I think that's true richness.

Today, we bring you the heartwarming stories of Japanese producers.

A fateful encounter in Nihonbashi, Tokyo

It was at a long-established department store in Nihonbashi, Tokyo. As I was walking through the store, my eye was caught by some sansho (Japanese pepper) tsukudani (simmered in soy sauce). My husband said, "Doesn't this look delicious? I'd like to buy some and try it at home." So I bought some to try. The next day, at lunchtime, the moment we opened the package, a wonderful aroma filled the air, and my husband and I were left speechless and stunned.

A refreshing and elegant aroma unlike anything I'd ever experienced before. A delicate spiciness that spread in the mouth. And a unique crunchy texture. I immediately contacted the producer, and the person who answered the phone was Nagaoka Fuyuki, president of Kanja Sanshoen. He spoke to me politely with a gentle, calm voice, and from that moment on, I had a strong desire to share the sansho pepper he produces with people all over the world.

Upon further investigation, I found that Nagaoka's story was full of surprises, like a movie.

Nagaoka Fuyuki's challenge: saving his hometown from the brink of abandonment

Nagaoka was born and raised in the mountainous area of Aridagawa Town, Wakayama Prefecture. He went to Kyoto to attend university, and after graduating he worked at the local Chamber of Commerce. At the age of 30, he left town again for the city. However, as he experienced life in a big city, he realized how wonderful the hometown where he was born and raised was. At the same time, he also witnessed the reality that his hometown was on the verge of abandonment.

Wakayama Prefecture is one of the leading producers of sansho pepper in Japan, accounting for approximately 60% of the nation's total production. Among these, the grape sansho variety is a top-quality product with large berries and a wonderful fragrance. The name "grape sansho" comes from the way the berries grow in clusters, resembling bunches of grapes. This sansho pepper was once traded at high prices for its use in traditional Chinese medicine, and Nagaoka wondered, "Is there something I can do to help the local community?"

The challenge of the 2006 price crash

From the 1990s to the early 2000s, the demand for budo sansho skyrocketed due to the popularity of traditional Chinese medicine. Prices soared, and many farmers began cultivating this "money tree." However, because it could be sold for a high price, many people started cultivating it at the same time, which led to an oversupply and a crash in market prices around 2006. Cultivation requires a huge amount of time and effort, but incomes plummeted, and many farmers stopped production all at once.

It was at this exact moment that Nagaoka launched Kanja Sanshoen. People around him said, "It's reckless to start now," but he was confident. "If you make something truly good, there will definitely be people who recognize its value. If the Kampo market doesn't work out, there must be potential in the world of gourmet food."

Traveling alone to Europe - the moment the world recognized him

With the domestic market in a slump, Nagaoka made a bold decision. He decided to go alone to a food exhibition in Europe. At the time, he could barely speak English or French. He had little financial resources and no public assistance. However, Nagaoka believed that "language barriers and cultural differences don't matter. If it's truly good, the taste and aroma will speak for themselves."

On the day of the exhibition, Nagaoka's booth was initially quiet. However, the moment one chef tried a sample, everything changed. "What is this?" Seeing the chef's surprised expression, other chefs began to gather around one after another. Before they knew it, a crowd had formed in front of the booth.

The guests were chefs from Michelin-starred restaurants. They all expressed their amazement, saying things like, "This is an aroma I've never experienced before," "It's completely different from Chinese Sichuan pepper, with an elegant spiciness that is unique to Japan," "This delicacy, this complexity... it's a versatile spice that can even be used in desserts," and "I want to sign a contract right away."

That day, Nagaoka's booth became one of the most popular spots at the exhibition. Budo Sansho had made a name for itself in the European gastronomy world as a "JAPANESE PREMIUM SPICE."

The decisive difference from Sichuan pepper

I am often asked, "What is the difference between this and Chinese Sichuan pepper?" In fact, it is rare to find two spices that are so different even though they both have the same name, "Sansho."

Sichuan peppercorns are a powerful spice essential to Sichuan cuisine, with their intense numbing effect and pungent spiciness. Meanwhile, grape sansho peppers are characterized by a refreshing and elegant citrus aroma, with a sweet fragrance from rose essential oil (geraniol). They have a mild yet lingering, delicate numbing effect, and a unique, large, fleshy, and crunchy texture. Above all, they are elegant enough to be used in a wide variety of dishes, from French to Italian, and even desserts.

To put it in perspective, if Sichuan pepper is powerful rock music, then budo sansho is delicate classical music. Both are wonderful, but the quality of the emotion they deliver is completely different. Of particular note is the "geraniol" contained in budo sansho. This is a component also found in roses and geraniums, and is the source of the gorgeous fragrance used in high-end perfumes. It is this component that makes budo sansho resonate so perfectly with desserts.

Why it's called the "Green Diamond"

There's a reason why locals call budo sansho "green diamond."

First of all, it is extremely rare. Budo Sansho can only be grown in the special environment of the mountainous area of Aridagawa Town, Wakayama Prefecture, at an altitude of 400 to 700 meters. There are only a few places in the world that meet all of these conditions: a moderate temperature difference, a clean water source, humidity that encourages fog, and well-drained soil.

During the harvest season in September, the berries of Japanese pepper shine a vibrant emerald green. Each berry looks like a polished jewel. This beauty adds a touch of luxury to the appearance of the dish. At a three-star Michelin restaurant, just one berry of grape sansho pepper on a white plate makes the entire dish look like a work of art.

Above all, it is rare to find a single spice that can be used in such a wide range of dishes, from Japanese simmered dishes and grilled fish, to French foie gras and sauces, Italian pasta and carpaccio, and desserts such as chocolate and ice cream. This versatility inspires the creativity of chefs around the world.

Health benefits and delicious ways to use it

Recent research has revealed that sansho pepper has a variety of health benefits. First and foremost is its digestive aid, which activates gastrointestinal function and increases appetite. In addition, the ingredient sanshool dilates blood vessels, which helps improve blood circulation, improve sensitivity to cold, and improve metabolism.

Furthermore, the polyphenols contained in budo sansho are rich in antioxidants that remove active oxygen, and are expected to have anti-aging effects and improve immunity. It also has natural antibacterial and preservative properties, making it ideal for preventing food poisoning. It is truly the ideal spice for health-conscious people.

It can also be used in a variety of delicious ways. Sprinkle a little powdered budo sansho on white fish or scallop carpaccio for an exquisite match of the refreshing citrus aroma and the sweetness of the seafood. Sprinkle it on vanilla ice cream, and the subtle tingling sensation and aroma will enhance the sweetness of the ice cream, transforming it into a sophisticated dessert. Grill chicken thighs and finish them off with a sauce made with butter and budo sansho for a simple yet rich flavor.

Adding a little powdered budo sansho to a gin and tonic will amplify the citrus aroma, creating a cocktail for adults. When making truffles with high-quality dark chocolate, adding a little budo sansho creates a surprising combination of the bitterness of the chocolate and the aroma of the sansho.

The trick to using the right amount is to use the amount that makes you think, "Is this too little?" For a meal for two people, the recommended amount is about one teaspoonful if using powder, or 2-3 grains per person if using as is. Start with a small amount and increase according to your taste. (My family loves sansho pepper, so for tsukudani, we use about 10 grains at a time.)

Now the world comes to the mountains

What's most interesting is the complete reversal of the trend. Nagaoka-san once traveled alone to European exhibitions. Now, famous chefs from around the world are traveling deep into the mountains of Wakayama with one goal in mind: to get a share of Kanja Sansho Farm's grape sansho pepper.

Among them is Ferran Adrià, the former head of the legendary El Bulli, once known as "the world's hardest restaurant to get a reservation for." A revolutionary in molecular gastronomy who had a major impact on the global culinary world, Adrià picked up Kanja Sanshoen's budo sansho and endorsed its quality. In fact, a photo of Adrià himself holding budo sansho and recommending it can be seen on Kanja Sanshoen's official website.

It is used in the three-star restaurant "El Celler de Can Roca" in Spain, and in numerous star-winning restaurants through a high-end spice store in France. Recently, world-class chocolatiers have been creating chocolates using grape sansho pepper, which have won numerous awards at international competitions.

At a three-star restaurant in Paris, France, a single grain of grape sansho pepper is garnished with foie gras terrine and pan-fried white fish is served with a grape sansho sauce.At a three-star restaurant in Milan, Italy, powdered grape sansho pepper is sprinkled on prosciutto and melon, and grape sansho pepper oil is drizzled on risotto.

One three-star chef said, "Budo sansho has given my cooking a new dimension. It is a miraculous spice that combines opposing elements: delicacy and strength, elegance and wildness." Another chef commented, "A single grain of budo sansho changes the impression of the entire dish. It's like a single color accent in a painting."

A miraculous taste you can experience too

The story of Nagaoka Fuyuki and Kanja Sanshoen is not just a success story. It is a modern-day miracle story that brings together a deep love for one's hometown, an uncompromising pursuit of quality, courage to take on the world, and a commitment to a sustainable future.

Each grain of budo sansho is packed with Wakayama's rich nature, Nagaoka's passion and hard work, Japan's traditions and techniques, the potential for connecting with the world, and hope for a sustainable future.

The world's top chefs make the effort to travel deep into the mountains of Wakayama. It's because they seek authentic value that can only be found here. Not efficiency or cheapness, but quality and a story. Not mass production, but careful handwork. Not global standards, but unique locality.

We would like everyone who has not yet heard of this product to try this "Green Diamond." Experience for yourself the thoughtfulness of Mr. Nagaoka that has been put into each and every grain, and the bounty of the Wakayama mountains. We are sure that it will add a new color to your cooking, and to your life.

Kanja Sanshoen's lineup is here⬇️