Dear foodies, I'm Miko, the manager of Kogaiko Shoten.
With health consciousness on the rise worldwide these days, an increasing number of Japanese households are choosing not to use sugar in their cooking. However, many people are turning to mirin as a sweetener, but is the mirin you're using really safe?
Today, I would like to talk about mirin, a seasoning that is absolutely essential when talking about the essence of Japanese cuisine, yet is often "misunderstood" by many people.
Well then, let's get started!
- Is the mirin you're using okay?
- A "nutritional tonic" in the Edo period: Mirin was originally a drink
- Why the real thing disappeared: Four economic factors
- 1. Price hikes due to liquor taxes: a tragedy caused by GHQ policies
- 2. Mass production of counterfeit goods through industrialization: Substitutes born out of the pursuit of profit
- 3. Pursuit of Profits in the Distribution Industry: The Real Thing Has Disappeared from the Shelves
- 4. Consumers Pursuing Convenience: Lost "Value of Time"
- Tragic Results: The Crisis of Japanese Food Culture
- Miraculous Survivors: Breweries that Preserved Tradition
- [Hakusen Brewery] The Story of Fukurai Jun's "Traditional Method" Matured Hon Mirin
- [Kadotani Bunjiro Shoten] The Story of Organic Sanshu Mirin
- What the two breweries have in common: Why they survived
- Dramatic changes in cooking: One drop can change the world
- The high hurdle of a liquor license
- Summary ~An important message from Manager Miko~
Is the mirin you're using okay?
In fact, it is unfortunate that even Japanese people are unaware that over 95% of the "mirin" sold in supermarkets is actually a completely different food product called "mirin-style seasoning."
Knowing the difference between real mirin and fakes can dramatically change the way you cook and your health.
So today, I would like to introduce two truly authentic products that I can wholeheartedly recommend with confidence. They are hon mirin made using traditional methods that have been passed down since the Edo period: Kadoya Bunjiro Shoten's organic Sanshu mirin and Hakusen Shuzo's Fukurai Jun's "traditionally made" aged hon mirin .
Related article: Tips for choosing healthy seasonings: Check the ingredients and buy wisely
A "nutritional tonic" in the Edo period: Mirin was originally a drink

Before that, I would like to share a little bit about the history of mirin.
Did you know that mirin was originally loved as a drink? During the Edo period, mirin was popular as a luxurious nightcap, a special alcoholic beverage that helped to relieve fatigue and improve physical strength.
Why was it popular as a nightcap?
The secret lies in its incredible nutritional concentration of over 40% extract . Considering that modern energy drinks have an extract content of around 8-12%, this shows just how high the nutritional value of Hon Mirin is.
Rich nutritional components contained in Hon Mirin
- 9 essential amino acids : Strengthening your body and boosting your immune system
- Organic acids (citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, etc.) : Relieves fatigue and promotes metabolism
- Rich in B vitamins : Maintaining a healthy nervous system and energy metabolism
- Various minerals : Maintaining good health and improving vitality
- Oligosaccharides : Improves intestinal environment and boosts immunity
- Over 200 complex flavor components : Increases appetite and reduces stress
Health-conscious people in the Edo period consumed this natural nutritional food on a daily basis, and it was the prototype of the ideal supplements sought after by modern people.
Why the real thing disappeared: Four economic factors
1. Price hikes due to liquor taxes: a tragedy caused by GHQ policies
During the post-war reconstruction period, GHQ policies required Hon Mirin to be subject to the same liquor tax as sake. Until then, Hon Mirin had been a popular drink on the dinner tables of ordinary people, but overnight its price jumped 3-4 times .
The background to this policy was the decision to treat Hon Mirin, which has an alcohol content of 14%, as an "alcoholic beverage." The introduction of this liquor tax shook the very foundations of a food culture that had continued since the Edo period, and Hon Mirin became a "luxury item" in many households .
Looking at household accounts from that time, there are records showing that the price of one bottle of Hon Mirin was equivalent to 5 kg of rice. With the food shortages of the postwar period, how many housewives could afford Hon Mirin? In this way, the "authentic taste" that has been passed down since the Edo period gradually disappeared from ordinary households.
2. Mass production of counterfeit goods through industrialization: Substitutes born out of the pursuit of profit
In the 1960s, a mirin-like seasoning, made primarily from starch syrup and chemical seasonings, appeared as a substitute for traditional mirin. The manufacturing conditions for this substitute were completely different from those for traditional mirin :
The production cost is one-tenth of the real thing, and it can be made in just three days , making it an extremely attractive product for major food manufacturers. While authentic mirin requires 90 days of preparation and two to three years of aging, mirin-style seasoning can be completed in a factory simply by mixing starch syrup, glucose, chemical seasonings, flavorings, and preservatives.
Even more decisive was the fact that mirin-style seasonings were exempt from liquor tax because their alcohol content was less than 1%, which allowed for a significant reduction in sales price, leading to their acceptance by consumers as a "cheap and convenient seasoning."
Food manufacturers advertised it with the catchphrase "easy and economical" and gained the support of busy housewives. In this way, an industrial product completely different from the original "mirin" began to dominate the market under the name "mirin."
3. Pursuit of Profits in the Distribution Industry: The Real Thing Has Disappeared from the Shelves
The rise of supermarkets brought about major changes in the structure of the distribution industry. Major chain stores placed emphasis on efficiency and profit margins, and began aggressively selling counterfeit goods with high profit margins, driving genuine goods off the shelves .
For supermarket buyers, mirin-style seasoning was the ideal product:
- Stable supply through bulk purchases
- Can be stored for a long time (due to the use of preservatives)
- High profit margin (low cost price)
- Meets consumer price preferences
On the other hand, genuine mirin is:
- Unstable supply due to small-scale production
- Difficulty in providing consistent quality due to natural fermentation
- Slow sales due to high prices
- Alcohol content makes handling more complicated
As a result, genuine mirin disappeared from many supermarkets, and mirin-like condiments came to dominate the "mirin section." Consumers were deprived of choice and were led to believe that counterfeits were the real thing.
4. Consumers Pursuing Convenience: Lost "Value of Time"
As Japan entered the period of rapid economic growth, the entire Japanese society became dominated by values that prioritized "cheap, fast, and easy." As women entered the workforce, the time available for cooking became limited, and "ease" became more important than anything else.
In this context, consumers are increasingly accepting the following ideas:
- "The taste shouldn't be that different."
- "The cheaper option is obviously easier on the household budget."
- "It's more convenient to store it at room temperature."
- "It's definitely better to be able to buy it anywhere."
However, this was a major misconception. There is a world of difference in taste between real mirin, which contains over 200 natural flavoring ingredients, and mirin-style seasonings that only have artificial sweetness. The nutritional value of real mirin, which has an extract content of over 40%, can never be found in mirin-style seasonings, and its economic value is immeasurable.
As a result of neglecting quality and health considerations and the widespread short-sighted thinking that "cheap is good," Japanese people unknowingly gave up the "authentic flavor" that had been passed down from generation to generation.
Tragic Results: The Crisis of Japanese Food Culture
The combined effect of these four factors dealt a devastating blow to Japan's authentic mirin industry, forcing over 90% of the nation's authentic mirin breweries to close or switch to producing counterfeits .
Of the hundreds of breweries that have been in business since the Edo period, only a dozen or so remain, able to continue using traditional methods. This can be said to be one of the most serious cultural losses in the history of Japanese food culture.
Even today, it is unfortunate that even Japanese people are unaware that over 95% of the "mirin" sold in supermarkets is actually a completely different food product called a "mirin-like seasoning ." What many people think is "mirin" is actually a mixture of starch syrup and chemical seasonings, and is completely different from the nourishing tonic that people in the Edo period drank.
When we realize this reality, we must ask ourselves anew: what have we really lost in exchange for the values of "cheap, fast, and easy"? Perhaps now is the time to reevaluate what true value is.
Miraculous Survivors: Breweries that Preserved Tradition
While hundreds of breweries succumbed to economic pressure, a dozen or so breweries persevered with traditional methods . However, the journey was difficult, and many were forced to scale back or temporarily cease production. Some were forced to take on other ventures to keep their family businesses afloat.
Even under such difficult circumstances, the breweries have continued to adhere to the authentic methods used since the Edo period without compromise , making them worthy of being called the guardians of Japan's food culture. Among them, we will introduce two representative breweries that have remained true to their beliefs.
[Hakusen Brewery] The Story of Fukurai Jun's "Traditional Method" Matured Hon Mirin

Three Years of Aging Creates an Amber Masterpiece! Fuku-Rai Jun “Traditional Method” Matured Hon-Mirin – Hakusen Shuzo 500ml
"I would rather perish than create a fake."
Hakuougi Sake Brewery in Kawabe-cho, Gifu Prefecture, was founded in the late Edo period. In the 1960s, when a wave of mirin-style seasonings swept across Japan, the owner of Hakuougi Sake Brewery was forced to make a serious decision.
While other breweries around them were turning to counterfeiting in order to "survive," Hakusen Brewery stood firm and said:
"It's better to create the real thing and perish than to create a fake and survive."
These words were not just a business decision, but a declaration of a fierce battle for the soul of Japan, a pride inherited from its ancestors.
The result of sticking to one's beliefs
Even in the 1970s, when sales plummeted to one-tenth of their original size , the recipe remained unchanged, and the same recipe as in the Edo period has been maintained to this day. Current CEO Mr. Kato says:
"If someone asks me what mirin from the Edo period was like, I can confidently say, 'This is it.'"
Characteristics of Jun Fukurai
- Aged for three years for a perfect amber color and deep flavor
- We use only domestically produced glutinous rice, handmade rice koji, and homemade rice shochu.
- Nutritional concentration of over 40% extract : 9 essential amino acids, organic acids, B vitamins
- Everything from rice polishing to koji making and shochu distillation is done in-house
- Complex and deep flavor with over 200 flavoring ingredients
[Kadotani Bunjiro Shoten] The Story of Organic Sanshu Mirin

Authentic mirin made with the same techniques as the Edo period! Kadoya Bunjiro Shoten Organic Sanshu Mirin 500ml
Guardian of Mikawa, the holy land of mirin production
Mikawa has been known as the "holy land of mirin production" since the Edo period. Since its founding in 1910, Kadoya Bunjiro Shoten has chosen to specialize in mirin, a bold decision while other companies have been producing sake as well. For 114 years, they have adhered to the philosophy of "From one sho of rice, one sho of mirin."
The existential crisis of the 1970s
- Sales plummeted to one-tenth of the previous year
- Banks pressured to change business
- Still, we insist on "only making the real thing"
The miraculous revival of the 1990s
With the advent of the gourmet era, chefs at traditional Japanese restaurants began to purchase this product by name, insisting that "it has to taste like this." As health consciousness grew, it was reevaluated, and now it has become a famous product loved by gourmets around the world.
Characteristics of Organic Sanshu Mirin
- Completely organically grown ingredients + 2-year aging for ultimate quality
- The ultimate sweetness and nutritional value of organic glutinous rice from contracted farmers in Miyagi and Yamagata
- Nutritional concentration of over 40% extract : 9 essential amino acids, organic acids, B vitamins
- Proof of safety through organic JAS certification
- From rice polishing to koji making and shochu distillation, everything is done in-house without outsourcing.
What the two breweries have in common: Why they survived
What sets these two breweries apart is that they share the following common characteristics:
❶ Over 100 years of history, the Edo period manufacturing method has remained unchanged to the present day
Undeterred by the temptation to streamline production and cut costs, we have maintained the same manufacturing methods that have been passed down through generations, without shortening even a single day of the 90-day preparation period or the 2-3 year aging period.
❷ A completely in-house integrated system from ingredients to aging
While many breweries cut costs by outsourcing, these breweries manage the entire process in-house, from sourcing ingredients to the final product, without ever compromising on quality.
3. Prioritizing cultural mission over economic rationality
Rather than short-term profits, he prioritized passing on Japan's food culture to the next generation. His strong sense of mission, "Even if we don't make a profit, we must not let our culture die out," became the driving force that helped him overcome difficult times.
❹ Unwavering commitment to quality
They refused to adjust the flavor to meet market demands or use additives to extend the shelf life, adhering to their belief that "the real thing should remain the real thing."
❺ Deep ties with the local community
Through contract farming with local farmers and participation in local festivals and events, the company has continued to exist not just as a manufacturer but as part of the local culture. These connections have supported the company through difficult times.
Dramatic changes in cooking: One drop can change the world
In the 1990s, a gourmet boom suddenly took hold in Japan, with TV programs featuring chefs from famous restaurants and traditional Japanese restaurants competing in cooking competitions, and as a result, hon mirin began to be reevaluated.
A head chef at a top Japanese restaurant says:
"No matter how hard you try, cooking with mirin-style seasonings just won't cross the line. Authentic flavor can only come from authentic ingredients. You can't lie."
These words truly speak to the true value of Hon Mirin.
Five magical effects
①Profound three-dimensional flavor
Its complex and deep sweetness is created by over 200 flavor components and over 40% extract, resulting in a rich nutritional profile. Its multi-layered flavor is reminiscent of a fine wine.
②Natural nutritional supplement effect
Nine essential amino acids and organic acids (citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid) help recover from fatigue and increase vitality just by eating the dish.
3. Mysterious shine and luster
The natural amber color created by long-term aging gives dishes a jewel-like shine.
④The magic of fragrance
The rich aroma that rises when heated eliminates the odor of the ingredients and transforms into an appetizing fragrance.
⑤Improved water retention
The rich amino acids and oligosaccharides help keep meat and fish moist and prevent them from drying out.
How to use it as taught by a professional
The basics of Japanese cuisine : In fact, once you learn this golden ratio, it's very easy to apply to any dish.
- Golden ratio of simmered food : dashi, soy sauce, mirin = 1:1:1
- Perfect teriyaki : Boil down soy sauce, mirin, and sake in a 1:1:1 ratio.
A revolution in international cuisine
- Western cuisine : hamburger glaze, marinated chicken, oven-baked root vegetables
- Chinese cuisine : Sweet and sour pork sauce, secret ingredient in mapo tofu, sauce for roast pork
- Sweets : Sugar substitute for pancakes, castella, ice cream sauce
The high hurdle of a liquor license
Why does authentic mirin require a liquor license ? Because authentic mirin is classified as an alcoholic beverage with an alcohol content of 14%, a liquor license is required to sell it. Obtaining this license involves strict screening, and many conditions must be met, including financial status, personnel requirements, and years of experience. In contrast, mirin-style seasonings are simply synthetic seasonings, so they contain less than 1% alcohol and there are no restrictions on their sale.
Distribution restrictions : This requirement for a liquor sales license has significantly limited the distribution of authentic mirin. Even in major supermarket chains, only a limited number of stores sell alcoholic beverages, meaning that mirin-style seasonings continue to be far more readily available.
Difficulty in expanding overseas : Alcohol import restrictions in each country make expanding overseas complicated. There are many unnecessary procedures for mirin-style seasonings, such as customs procedures, age verification, and sales licenses.
The reason we overcame this complicated screening process and worked so hard to obtain a liquor license was because we wanted to introduce this miraculous traditional Japanese seasoning to people overseas. We are now proud to be able to introduce it to you all.
Summary ~An important message from Manager Miko~
Hakusen Brewery's Fukurai Jun "traditional method" matured Hon Mirin and Kadoya Bunjiro Shoten's organic Sanshu Mirin. These two Hon Mirin are truly miraculous, with a dramatic story spanning over 110 years, having been tossed about by history.
If you look at the price alone, it may be more expensive than regular mirin-style seasonings, but every drop contains the spirit of artisans who have been involved since the Edo period, over 200 natural flavoring ingredients, and over 40% extract, making it packed with rich nutrients.
Experience how this amber-colored spoonful will add depth to your dishes and give them the ultimate umami flavor without relying on chemical seasonings or additives.
A small revolution that starts at the dinner table. We believe that the choices of each individual will help preserve Japan's beautiful food culture and spread awareness around the world, ensuring that this wonderful century-old company can continue into the future.



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